One major advantage of our high-pressure glued veneered worktops is that they are exceptionally easy to install and maintain. This leaflet is designed to provide you with all the information you require to install and care for your worktop, and to help you keep it in pristine condition. We recommend taking the time to read through this leaflet before commencing installtion, so as to ensure your worktop is fitted correctly.
Engineered worktops are supplied in shrink-wrap packaging, edging strips are supplied separately. Do not discard any of the packaging supplied until you have checked all parts, and please retain these instructions for future reference.
Installation should be carried out as soon as possible after delivery. However if storage is necessary, the worktops must be laid flat and fully supported in their original packaging. Worktops must not be placed directly onto the floor, instead seperate the floor and worktop with battens as shown in the diagram below.
Make sure the storage area is indoors, has a stable humidity and will not be subject to extremes of temperature.
DO NOT UNPACK WORKTOPS UNLESS:
When fixing the worktops to cabinets, position the fixings at even intervals - three screws at the back and front of each unit are recommended. Use a 4mm gauge drill bit to make clearance holes through the support panels on each cabinet. Place your worktop on top of the cabinets, and check that it fits flush against the wall. Screw a 5mm x 35mm wood screw through each fixing position.
Do not fix worktops directly onto masonry. Use timber spacers measuring 6-10mm thick, with a Damp proof Membrane (DPM) beneath. This prevents the transmission of moisture and provides airspace under the top, so that the composite fibreboard is not compromised.
If you are fitting tiles above the work surface, be sure to leave a space of at least 3mm between the worktop and the bottom row of tiles. This will allow for easy removal of the worktop if necessary.
If holes have been cut through the worktop to accomodate pipes, a 2-3mm allowance for expansion/contraction should be allowed around the pipe. This gap can be filled with a silicone sealant.
When installing a dishwasher or washing machine, ensure that a protective moisture barrier is fitted correctly to the underside of the worktop. These are sometimes supplied by the appliance manufacturer, or can be purchased directly from Worktop Express® .
Ensure that the cut edge of the worktops is flat and free from dust before attaching the matching edging strips. End grain edging strip can be attached using either PVA adhesive or alternatively an all purpose contact adhesive such as Ever Build stick2 instant contact spray adhesive. Spray 2-3 coats onto the strip and the chip board core, wait approximately two minutes and fix strip in place. When using PVA adhesive edge strip it should be clamped in place while it dries. Front edging strip is supplied with adhesive already applied. Heat the strip from the front edge using a heat gun and fix the strip into place.
Depending on the correct tools and preference there are two options for fitting the end grain edging strips
Trim any excess from the edging strips (with a laminate trimmer or a sharp carpenter's plane) and use a fine-toothed file to smooth the edge until flush with the worktop.
IMPORTANT:Before making any cuts into your worktop, double-check your measurements and ensure that these are marked correctly with a pencil
All cutting tools should be sharp, and safety goggles and a dust mask should be used whenever cutting surfaces
The best results will be achieved by cutting the worktop with a tolerance of +5mm, using a portable power saw (with the top side face down). To finish the edge, use a portable hand router, straight edge to the worktop and ensure the cutter enters at the post-formed edge which will result in a perfectly straight, chip-free cut.
Our staff can advise on a comprehensive range of professional-quality worktop jigs; please enquire for further information.
All cut edges must be sealed with a water-resistant material, such as silicone.
When making a cut-out for a sink, hob or other inset worktop appliance, use the template supplied as a guide for cutting your worktop.
Any cut-outs should be carefully measured and marked. Working from the top surface, drill through all the corners using at least a 10mm diameter drill bit (sharp internal corners can lead to cracks/chips forming in the surface). Cut-outs can be made using a portable hand router, as explained above.
Alternatively, a jig saw can be used, providing that the four corners have been pre-drilled using a 10mm drill bit. Mark out the area to be cut on the top side of the worktop and drill a hole in each of the four corners of the cut-out. Then, turn the worktop over and mark a staight line from one hole to another. Use a jig saw with a fine-toothed blade to cut from hole to hole. Ensure the section to be cut out is well supported on the final cut.
Make sure that all the exposed edges are sealed with a silicone sealant. If you have fitted an overmounted sink to the worktop, seal around the sink with an appropriate mould-resistant silicone, to prevent water ingress that will swell the fibreboard.
When joining two engineered worktops together, we recommend using either a 90° standard joint or a 45° degree mitre joint depending on worktop layout. Bolt apertures should be cut on the underside of the worktop using a jig and should be no deeper than 25mm from the underside face. For a 600mm deep worktop three bolts are recommended, and four bolts for a 900mm deep worktop.
For further details, please refer to our worktop jig instructions: