Their solid composition makes solid laminate, also called compact laminate, worktops easy to install and maintain. A solid laminate worktop requires no treatment prior to fitting and requires no specialist equipment for installation. These instructions have been compiled to help you fit your solid laminate worktops correctly to ensure they are secure and that they last as long as possible too. We recommend you read our guide thoroughly before fitting your new surfaces.
Your solid laminate worktops will be delivered in shrink-wrapped plastic packaging - please remove this and dispose of carefully. We recommend that you keep these instructions for your reference.
If you have not had any alterations to your worktop, the size may be slightly larger than advertised to ensure the measurements specified upon purchase make up a completely usable section. Please measure your worktop before installing as it may require trimming to meet your size requirements.
Solid laminate worktops require no treatment prior to installation so we recommend that they are fitted as soon as possible following delivery. Should this be impractical, we advise that your worktops are stored flat, face up and supported through their entire length. If you have more than one worktop that needs storing and wish to stack them, please ensure that the surfaces are clean and clear from any debris as there is the potential that this could cause damage through abrasion. We suggest using several layers of cardboard between boards.
These worktops can be stored vertically for short periods of time during installation if necessary.
DO NOT UNPACK WORKTOPS UNLESS:
It is important to ensure you have sufficient manpower to safely lift and handle these worktops - a minimum of 2 people is required and the surfaces should be carried vertically along the width, not flat.
When planning the positioning of your worktop, please note that:
Solid laminate worktops should be fixed to base cabinets using a silicone sealant. Screws are not suitable for securing these surfaces in place due to their thickness.
If you wish to fit tiles above your solid laminate worktop, a small gap of at least 3mm is advisable to allow for the natural expansion of the work surface.
If holes are adjacent to, or, pipe holes have been cut through the worktop, a space of at least 3mm should be included around the pipe to ensure there is room for the surface to expand and contract. A silicone sealant can be used to fill this gap.
Unlike traditional laminate surfaces, solid laminate worktops do not require edging strips. To finish or re-finish edges, simply sand with 240 grit sanding paper to soften the edge. It is recommended that a small amount of linseed oil is applied to cut edges to achieve a smooth finish.
IMPORTANT: Before cutting into your worktop, we recommend double-checking measurements to ensure that they are all marked correctly using a pencil.
Solid laminate worktops require clean, sharp cutting tools of a good quality to ensure cuts are precise and a professional finish is achieved. When making any cuts in your surface, it is important that it is fully supported
Note: Joint edges and final finished ends will require skimming to size when finished - please allow an additional 2 - 3mm for this.
When cutting-out for hobs, sinks or other inset items, double check measurements or use a jig or template - ensuring that it is clamped into position to avoid movement. Sharp cutting tools are required to ensure neat cuts. It is also important to support the worktop whilst cutting.
Cutting can be done in two different ways, depending on the visibility of the top edge of the work surface. Cuts that will be hidden (i.e. a cut-out to accommodate an overmount sink) can be started with a drill-hole in each corner of the aperture, and the rest can be cut-out using a hand-held jigsaw, router cutter (12mm or 12.7mm cutter recommended) or a circular saw with a rail guide and TCT triple chip blade.
For cuts that will be visible (i.e. a cut-out for an undermount sink) it is recommended that the work surface is cut face up using a hand router.
It is important to dry fit the item that is being installed into the work surface to ensure a neat finish and good fit. Any issues should arise at this stage and can be rectified before edges are finished.
The gap between the bottom of a hob and the item below it will be decreased due to the thickness of a solid laminate worktop. This is not an issue for cupboards, but if an oven or drawers are being fitted underneath a hob it is important to ensure there is ample space between the items. It is not recommended to use a standard depth drawer under a hob installed in a solid laminate worktop and for a pan drawer to be fitted instead. Single ovens should also be lowered by 20 - 25mm.
Note: Belfast or butler sinks are not recommended for installation in a solid laminate worktop. If this type of sink is being used, please refer to the installation instructions from the sink manufacturer.
When fitting a sink in your solid laminate worktop, spreading dowels should always be used in conjunction with the sink clips to avoid screwing through the worktop (which could cause damage). For undermount sinks, a small bead of silicone should be applied to the face of the worktop around the cut out - any excess will need to be wiped away whilst wet.
When drilling through the worktop completely, a sacrificial piece of MDF should be used on the underside of the hole to prevent flaking. For holes that do not need to go through the worktop completely, it is recommended a 2 - 3mm gap is left to prevent cracking (i.e. maximum hole depth of approximately 10mm). .
For tap holes, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions to ensure moisture does not enter the tap hole - we recommend using a silicone sealant to seal the tap to the worktop to help prevent this further.
A clear 2-part epoxy resin is needed to bond two worktops together and will also work as a waterproof sealant. Follow the instructions carefully to ensure the correct ratio of hardener to adhesive is used.
As solid laminate worktops are supplied with a slightly softened edge - worktops can be jointed as-is but this will result in a more visible connection. For a more discreet seam, a router can be used to achieve a square edge profile.
A biscuit joint is required to secure solid laminate worktops together, whether a straight connection is being created or a masons' mitre joint for a corner is being used
For a masons' mitre joint, the same steps can be undertaken after the worktop has been cut using a jig to achieve a neat finish.
NOTE: Failure to follow these installation instructions will result in the void of any product warranty.