Information Guides > Wooden Worktops > Repairing Minor Kitchen Worktop Damage: A Worktop Express® Nutshell Guide

Repairing Minor Kitchen Worktop Damage: A Worktop Express® Nutshell Guide

61 Responses to “Repairing Minor Kitchen Worktop Damage: A Worktop Express® Nutshell Guide”

  1. Hi,

    I dropped a white plate from the unit above the work surface and it has scratched the surface leaving a white mark. I’m not sure what the surface is made from but it’s not top quality as we are renting and it’s the usual style landlords go for, it looks like oak with faint lines running through it. Is there anything I can do? It has a little dent in it but I’m more worries about the white mark? Please help.

  2. Hi Suzanne,

    Thanks for taking the time to post, but in order to be able to help we’d need to know what type of worktop it is.

    If it is a solid wood worktop, thankfully it is easier to repair than other alternatives, and will require a small amount of light sanding to remove the white mark, followed by a fresh coat of oil to return the worktop to its original condition. If the worktop hasn’t been oiled in a long time, you may have to coat the entire worktop in order to maintain an even finish.

    All the best,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  3. Have had an oroko worktop for seven years, have recently oiled it but it remains sticky this time and if something like a loaf of bread in a plastic bag is put on it it will remove the writing/color off the bag and leave it on the wood!! I have never had this problem before and I haven’t changed the way I oil the top. Help ,,

  4. Hi Frances,

    Thank you for contacting us.

    Regarding your worktops, please first consider that iroko has a naturally higher oil content than other timbers, so it is always advisable to wipe them with white spirit prior to applying your first coat of oil.
    Please note that this advise is in correlation with the product that we use and recommend – Rustins Danish Oil.

    As you have had your worktops for some time, the most common cause for a ‘tacky’ surface is the build up of unsaturated oil. Generally this is because any excess oil has not been wiped off when re-oiling which prevents is from drying fully.

    To resolve this you can wipe the surface with a small amount of white spirit applied to a lint free cloth. Leave this to dry and then reapply the oil. Leave the oil for 30 minutes and them wipe over the worktop to remove any excess oil.

    If you have any further queries, do let us know.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  5. Hi,

    I split some oven cleaner on a wooden work top by the sink, even though i have got the stains out, it looks patchy, will i need to sand the whole worktop section down for it to stop looking patchy?

  6. Hi Diana,

    Thank you for your enquiry.

    Unfortunately, if the surface is patchy, you may find you will need to re-sand the whole area and reapply oil to recreate an even finish. If you are having difficulty, please feel free to email photos and we will see if we can advise further.

    Best Regards,
    Leanne @ Worktop Express

  7. Hi,
    I’m in the process of fitting new oak worktops and I wondered if you can help?
    I’ve just put the second coat of oil on them and I blemish has appeared. At the end of one of the staves there’s a very small mark, about 2mm by 1/2mm that I missed when I prepared the surface.
    This by itself wouldn’t worry me but it looks like it must be the beginnings of a split running diagonally in the stave. It’s made a bump lift up as the oil has socked in. The bumps about 2mm high and it moves when pressed.
    Is there anything I could do to rectify this.
    Regards Graham

  8. Hi Graham,

    Without seeing the worktop, it’s difficult to diagnose exactly what the problem is, but having spoken to some of my colleagues it sounds like it could be what’s known as a ‘shake’.

    Shakes are a natural imperfection in the wood that occurs when there is longitudinal separation in the timber that usually it is just an aesthetic issue, though if it becomes larger it can reduce the strength of the timber.

    Worktops purchased from Worktop Express commonly have a primary side and a secondary side, sometimes referred to as ‘A’ and ‘B’. On the secondary side, some imperfections – such as shakes – may appear that are structurally sound, but would not be acceptable on the primary surface.

    Sometimes shakes should be filled with a small amount of wax, whilst on other occasions they can be sanded to a smooth finish that is almost indistinguishable from the rest of the timber.

    We would recommend that you sand the affected area down and fill if necessary before re-oiling.

    All the best,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  9. Hi,
    My sister accidentally left a lit match on my oak worktop (when lighting candles for a birthday cake). Now there is a small burn and dent the size and shape of a match head. Is there any way to repair this damage please?
    Many thanks,

  10. Hi Dawn,

    Thankfully, solid wood worktops are relatively easy to repair – even from minor burns.

    We recommend giving the affected area a light sanding until the stained timber has been removed. Once sanded back to fresh timber, you can can apply a fresh coat of oil (or your treatment of choice) the surface to blend it in.

    If you have a dent in the worktop, the only method we would suggest trying is to use an iron to ‘steam out’ the dent. Make sure that the iron is on a low heat and use a dish cloth to protect the surface from the iron.

    Kind regards,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  11. Hi, last night stupidly left a bag with oven cleaner and racks on oak worktop overnight…..and came downstairs to find it had leaked underneath leaving a black stain.
    I have tried sanding down but not really removing anything as soaked in deep….is there any hope?
    Kitchen is only a year old and wife not at all happy with me… :(

  12. Hi Dave,

    It’s a real shame to hear that you’ve had a leak on your oak worktops. Unfortunately oven cleaner is really potent stuff, and it has likely eaten quite deeply into the worktop’s surface, which would require quite a bit of sanding to completely remove.

    Though it may create a larger dent in the worktop, I would recommend sanding some more, as the solution will likely continue to soak into the wood and affect it further if not removed.

    Once you have sanded as much as possible away, you may then want to cover the affected area with wax to protect it, which can then be re-oiled to help blend it in with the rest of the worktop.

    I hope you manage to repair the surface sufficiently to avoid replacement.

    Kind regards,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  13. Hello

    I’m hoping you may to be offer advice to sort a problem with my kitchen worktop. Worktop is wooden with a plastic style covering, like mock granite effect.

    I somehow managed to get a drop of superglue on the worktop (without realising!) and then put my work lanyard on top of it. An hour or so later I picked up said lanyard and it was stuck to the worktop. In haste I pulled the lanyard off the worktop and a small piece of the work top came away, and is stuck to the lanyard.

    The damage is about the size of a 5p, basically the covering has came away exposing the wood underneath.

    Is there anything that could be done to cover up my foolish mistake?! Any help would be appreciated.


  14. Hi Chris,

    Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately we do not deal in laminate worktops, so it is difficult for us to provide advice on these kind of surfaces.

    We would recommend getting in touch with a laminate worktop specialist, who may be able to suggest some kind of filler to cover the exposed chipboard.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  15. Hi im hoping you can help!
    Weve got wooden worktops & when weve spilt food on & wiped it off, it looks like the top layer of the wood as wiped off and it has left a big white patch! Not sure how to get rid of this or even if i can! Any advice would be helpful! Thanks

  16. Hi Olivia,

    Thanks for your comment – it sounds like perhaps you have used an abrasive cleaner that contains bleach, which has then bleached the surface. Chemicals such as this are not recommended for cleaning wooden surfaces – we only ever recommend using natural solutions such a vinegar or lemon juice.

    To remove the affected area, we would recommend that you consider sanding down the surface, then apply a few fresh coats of oil to protect it again. Unfortunately, if the bleached area has soaked into the wood, sanding alone may not help to remove it. If this is the case, you may have to consider using a diluted wood stain on the entire surface, which closely matches the colour of your wooden worktops.

    For further information about fixing wood stains, please refer to our information guide:

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  17. I had Iroko kitchen worktops fitted a couple of years ago. They were finished with Rustins plastic coating and hardener. But, now areas of it have become bleached. We tried sanding it down and reapplying the plastic coating but this did not restore the colour at all, if anything it made it worse. Should we use a varnish? If so, which would you recommend? The original wood had a reddish tinge to it but came up golden when the plastic coating was applied so I’m worried about matching.


  18. Hi Liz,

    Unfortunately we do not have any experience of using Rustins plastic coating and hardener, and would usually recommend a worktop oil rather than varnish.

    You may find that rather than sanding the affected area, it would be better to sand down the entire worktop and then re-treat with the Rustins product you used previously.

    For further information on the different options available for treating wooden worktops, please refer to the following information guide:

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  19. Hello,
    I was cutting an onion and the knife I was holding slipped off the onion and stabbed my walnut worktop, it’s quite a deep scratch so I was thinking some type of filler? I wouldn’t want to sand it as it looks like a matte effect, I’ve only had it fitted a year and a half and I wouldn’t feel confident doing that, I’d probably wreck the whole thing and have to buy a new one! Any suggestions re making it look even slightly better would be very much appreciated! Thanks.

  20. Hi Stephanie,

    To fix a deep gouge in your worktop without sanding down and re-finishing the entire surface, we would recommend using a hot wax filler that matches the colour of the affected stave.

    Unfortunately we do not sell these fillers ourselves, but they should be available online or from one of the larger DIY retailers.

    Once filled, we would recommend that you polish the affected area, followed by a light oiling to help protect and seal the repair.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  21. Hi,

    I accidently got bleach on our oak work top – leaving a white ring. It was there for about 45 mins before I noticed and wiped it away.

    My partner is going to be so cross when he finds out as the kitchen is only a month old!

    Please help!

  22. Hi Belle,

    I’m sorry to hear your surface has been affected by bleach – it’s not a good mix with natural materials such as our wooden worktops.

    To remove the affected area, we would recommend that you consider sanding down the surface, then apply a few fresh coats of oil to protect it again. If the bleached area has soaked into the wood, sanding alone may unfortunately not help to fully remove it. If this is the case, you may have to consider using a diluted wood stain on the entire surface, which closely matches the colour of your wooden worktops.

    For further information about fixing wood stains, please refer to our information guide:

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  23. Hi. I lefet a plastic drinks bottle containing water with lemon juice on my oak wooden worktop which has left a dreadful ring. Wire wool has been really ineffective. Any ideas please? Many thanks

  24. Hi Polly,

    I’m sorry to hear your worktop has been stained, but it should be repairable – depending how far the lemon juice has soaked in. If wirewool has been ineffective, it is likely that you will have to sand back the top of the worktop and re-oil, as detailed above. This will hopefully remove the discolouration and re-oiling it will help to protect the newly exposed timber.

    Kind regards,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  25. Hi,

    I’ve a couple of scratches on my iroko worktop, I’ve sanded with 240 grit and re oiled however the areas sanded contrast with the rest of the worktop. How can I prevent this? Is the sanded area absorbing the oil? Should I use a 180 grit instead.


  26. Hi Jon,

    If the worktop still appears patchy after sanding and oiling, you may need to apply another coat (or two) of oil to help darken the surface. Unfortunately, if you still find the worktops are patchy in colour, you would need to sand down the entire surface and re-oil.

    You can find out more about sanding wooden worktops by reading our Nutshell guide:

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  27. Hi

    Can anyone help – I am reoiling my worktop having sanded it and after the third coat some areas have dots about the size of a 5p which although the same colour do not have the same sheen as the rest of the worktop (they are almost matt)

    This is most obvious when the worktop catches the light.

    I dont believe Ive done anything wrong but can you explain this and advise me on what to do next to git rif them?

  28. Hi Phil,

    This could be due to some kind of product spillage which may have effected certain areas of the oil, uneven sanding or grain or contact to areas of the worktop prior to oil being completely dry. We would however require photographs to be able to accurately comment. You could try sanding and reapplying oil to the more matte areas, followed by a whole coat of the worktop to finish. I have added some oiling tips below for your information:

    Take the denibbing pads that can be found in our aftercare kits and lightly rub the worktop down (the colour may appear slightly duller after this but don’t be alarmed: you are temporarily removing a small portion of the oil to start with, this will allow for a silky finish later).
    Rub down the entirety of the top face and exposed side(s) of worktop, remove any dust with a clean cloth, and leave for an hour or so.
    Repeat the process until the cloth comes away clean. The top should now be completely free of dust and extremely smooth.
    You may now begin to add the finishing coats of oil.
    Begin by applying a small amount of oil to the brush supplied in our aftercare kit (you don’t need much – a little goes a long way) and use brush to spread the oil evenly all over the worktop.
    After the surface is completely covered rub down with a clean lint free cloth to make sure oil coverage is even.
    Leave to dry overnight. The best way to test whether the oil is completely dry it to put your hand on the surface and then remove it; if it feels ‘tacky’ or slightly sticky when you pull away, it’s not dry.
    Repeat the process – as many times as you desire.

    I hope that this helps.

    Kind regards,
    Leanne @ Worktop Express

  29. Hi my partner left a griddle pan on our walnut wood worktop, in the morning there were black stains, it wasn’t hot so I knew it wasn’t burn marks. No cleaning product would fully remove the stain so we had no choice but to sand it down. We managed to find the walnut varnish to match but unfortunately where we sanded is a different colour! Does this mean I will need to sand all of my worktop down n completely re varnish? Thank you emma

  30. Hi Emma,

    We recommend applying several coats of the varnish to the area you have sanded, to see if it is possible to build up the level of colour to match the rest of the work surface. If this does not produce a consistent end result, then it will be necessary to sand the entire surface and re-varnish.

    Kind regards,

    The Team @ Worktop Express.

  31. Please could you help. I have what appears a constant wet patch next to my sink, I presume because it needed oiling sooner. Should I try to dry it with a hairdryer and try and reoil it, or do you have any other advice?

  32. Hi Sandra,

    I’m sorry to hear you have some marking on your solid wood worktops. If it was not oiled enough after installation, it could be very likely that moisture was absorbed into the timber, causing the stain.

    We would most definitely not recommend you use any direct heat to attempt to dry the patch – this could cause the timber to expand too quickly and split at the stave joins.

    The only thing we would recommend is that you sand the worktop down and re-oil it as per the instructions in this information guide. If the stain persists, you could alternatively consider a light staining of the worktop after the sanding process, before applying fresh oil.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  33. Hi Ben

    Thank you, for your advice and very prompt reply.

  34. Hi, my Iroko worktop has developed a number of black spots and stains next to the sink where draining dishes have been left. I know I should have done something sooner to fix this! Would you recommend sanding and re oiling and if so, what level of coarseness for the sandpaper? Thanks

  35. Hi Nicola,

    It sounds like there is some water ingress around the sink area, which usually means that the timber has either not had sufficient amounts of oil to fully protect it, or that excess water is not being fully wiped-away after the sink has been in use.

    We would recommend that you start with a coarser grain of sandpaper, and work your way up to a 150 grit finish to create a smooth surface once again. You can then reapply 3 or more coats of oil (taking time to carefully dry and denib between each coat).

    We would recommend you read our oiling guide to ensure you follow the correct process:

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  36. Hello, would the iron technique work on the right angle of an front top edge, of a oak worktop?
    Thanks in advance

  37. Hi Paul,

    The “ironing technique” may work a little on edges, but is not likely to be as successful as it will be on flat surfaces. If you have a small dent in the edge, I would recommend you fill it with a wax that matches the colour of your timber. These can be melted into the recess and shaped to follow the uniform lines of the worktop edge.

    You can find out more about using wax to fill chips in the worktop by reading the following information guide:

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  38. Hi there
    I hope all team is okay . I’ve got an issue with my worktop it looks like it’s woody with plastic coating . I accidentally dropped frozen meat and it damaged the front edge of my worktop the size of damage isn’t that big but when you touch you can feel it what should I do .
    Thanks very much in advance

  39. Hello Sherry,

    I’m sorry to hear that your worktop has been damaged.

    If it is a solid wood worktop, it can be easily sanded down and re-finished with a new coat of plastic coating or lacquer. The most important thing is to ensure that you use the same type of treatment as it was originally given to help it blend in once you have repaired the edge.

    If it is a wood-effect laminate worktop, I would recommend you follow the repair tips in our recent dedicated information guide:

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  40. Hi there I have managed to take a chunk out of my kitchen bench top (the side) and need to fix it before my wife sees it or I’m in big trouble. I have photos I can send if need be. Any ideas how I can fix it?

  41. Hi Gary,

    I’m sorry to hear your worktop has been damaged. Is it a wood or laminate worktop? If it is a wood worktop you will need to either use a wax filler that matches the colour of your worktop, or sand it down and re-finish it. If it is laminate, Colourfill is a resin filler that will help to disguise the damage.

    Unfortunately neither of these are products that we sell, but both are available to purchase online from other retailers.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  42. Hi
    I have just bought a new house and the worktop is solid wood. Unfortunately, around the round sink there is excessive water damage and the pattern and wood have been completely ruined. The rest of the worktop as come up fine. Any ideas? I wondered if there was some kind of surround I could get to cover it.

  43. Hi Diane,

    Thank you for getting in touch – we are sorry to hear your wooden worktops have some water damage around the sink. If you have tried sanding the area down and have been unable to get rid of the water marks, it may be that they have penetrated too deep to be removable. Unfortunately we do not have any products that will cover up the old worktop, and would suggest that replacing this section may be a better option, if possible.

    I suggest that you give us a call on 0345 22 22 644 and speak with one of our sales advisors who will be able to discuss your options with you in a little more detail. I hope you are able to find a solution that will not compromise the rest of the beautiful wooden work surfaces you have in your new home.

    Kind regards,
    Stephanie @ Worktop Express

  44. Hi
    My solid oak worktop in kitchen has developed 2 or 3 inches long and half inch wide bulge/ looks like a swelling and bit dry. It was installed couple of years ago and I oiled it once since then but haven’t got round to doing it again. Do you know what this might be and what can I do?
    Thanks in advance for your advice.

  45. Hi Shiraz,

    Thanks for getting in touch regarding the issue your worktop has developed.

    I have consulted with our technical department, who suspect that a lack in regular oiling and maintenance may have led to water ingress causing the wood to swell and the grain lift.

    In order to attempt to rectify the swelling, you will need to sand the surface back and oil as per our guidelines. If the worktop has delaminated, you may have to make a small incision into the bump and apply a small amount of glue with a weight on top to help flatten the surface once again. Once the glue has dried, a further light sanding and oiling will be required.

    We would recommend that if you manage to successfully repair the affected area, you consider oiling the worktop at least a couple of times a year to help maintain a protective barrier against water ingress. Please do note, however, that if any water is spilt on the surface, it should be immediately wiped away so as to prevent any further damage.

    Kind regards,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  46. Hi I currently dropped the front of hammer the bit you hit with onto wooden surface it’s made a small dent like a circle and half the wood in the circle has come out . Not to deep
    I’ve put all purpose filler in the hole gap to fill the hole and will sand down with fine sandpaper then will go over with danish oil . Maybe 2 coats

    Would that be the right way to go about it ?

  47. Hi Mark,

    Thanks for getting in touch regarding your worktops. To rectify a dent, we would usually recommend using the “steam iron method” before filling. This process is described in the guide you responded to:

    If this does not remove the dent sufficiently, the repair you described is the correct method.

    Kind regards,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  48. Hi I left a bowl on my maple worktop and that area is now lighter than the rest. If uncovered will it blend in eventually?

  49. Thanks for your question.

    If your bowl has been left in the same spot since not long after your worktops were installed, it is likely that the wood surrounding it has been matured by the UV from natural light, whilst the covered area has not.

    Simply moving the bowl will have an affect over time, but it could take upwards of 6 months for the colour to blend in, and even then you may always find that there is a slight mark remaining.

    To achieve a totally unblemished finish, we would recommend that you give the entire surface a light sanding, followed by a fresh coat (or two) of Rustins Danish Oil, to protect the newly-exposed timber.

    Hopefully this assistance helps, but if you have any further questions, don’t hesitate to get back in touch via email, live chat or telephone.

    Kind regards,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  50. Hi,
    I have recently had a solid oak 40mm block worktop installed. The installer oiled the top side maybe once or twice. I have done it about 6 times since in three months.
    I have noticed that some of the blocks are raised up creating ridges on the worktop.
    Is this an imbalance as the underside doesn’t seem to have been oiled, the worktop wasn’t sanded down sufficiently or is it a fault with the worktop itself?
    I would like to know if anything can be done about it also?
    Many thanks for your time


  51. Hello Alasdair,

    Thank you for your enquiry.

    If the underside has not been oiled then this would be the likely cause. Please could you email in some photographs along with a report of what treatment has been used and how many coats to each area, which brackets have been used for installation (with photos if possible) and our Customer Support department will be able to advise further on the cause and how/if this can be rectified. The email address for this department is [email protected].

    Kind regards,

    Stephanie @ Worktop Express.

  52. Hi,

    I have a oak worktop with 40mm staves, around the sink there is a split the work too has had a 7 coats of oil. The split looks like there is a top layer sort of lifting off. What’s the best course of action to repair this?

  53. Hello Luke,

    We are sorry to hear that your worktop is splitting around the sink – without seeing the issue it is difficult for us to suggest the best way to resolve this. If you would like to email our team some photos of the area at [email protected] they should be able to assist further.

    Kind regards,
    Stephanie @ Worktop Express

  54. My pine kitchen worktop was previously treated with Beeswax but after 11 years has water marks in places. If I sand it down and use Danish oil for the damaged areas will it have a similar appearance to the beeswax finish?

  55. Hello Heidi,

    There may be a slight variation in the look of the patches you are re-treating if you choose to finish them with oil following sanding. We would usually recommend that the same treatment is applied to the entire worktop to ensure the look is as uniform as possible. Should you prefer to swap to oil, we would suggest that you may need to sand the entire work surface to remove the beeswax coating and apply oil once this has been done.

    Kind regards,
    Stephanie @ Worktop Express

  56. Hi

    I have a wide scratch on my oak worktop (about 1mm across and 5cm long).

    I have sanded the area to get rid of the scratch but now the sanded area is much lighter than the rest of the worktop no matter how many coats of Rustins Danish Oil I put on it.

    Is there anyway of getting the area back to matching the rest of the worktop?

  57. Hi Phil

    We are sorry to hear that removing the scratch in your worktop has left a light patch on your surface. If you are finding it difficult to achieve an even colour following several coats of oil, you may need to sand the entire worktop down to ensure a uniform shade.

    Once sanded, clear the surface of all dust before applying oil spread evenly over the entire worktop, then rub down with a clean lint free cloth to make sure oil coverage is even. Leave it to dry overnight until it does not feel tacky or sticky. Repeating the oiling process as many times as it takes for the colour of your worktop to become even.

    Kind regards,
    Stephen @ Worktop Express

  58. Hello. We have kitchen worktops of american black walnut. They were installed by the builder and have been sealed, not oiled, but I don’t know what with. After 5 years use irregular patches of fading to a greyish tone are appearing on parts of the tops, but not to any obvious pattern. The grey colouring is occurring below the seal- water put on the surface above the discolouration does not penetrate, so oiling makes no difference to the discolouration either. I suspect that we may have damage from UV light: do you agree? Is there anything we can do about it, short of re-sanding and re-finishing (a major job)? Thanks for your help.

  59. Hello Alan,

    Thank you for getting in touch. Without knowing what your worktop has been sealed with, it is difficult for us to comment on what has caused the grey areas, but it is entirely possible that this is through UV exposure. If the greying is occurring below the seal, the only option seems to be to sand the worktops back to raw timber and re-treat. I am sorry that we do not have an alternative solution for you, please let us know if you have any further questions or queries.

    Kind regards
    Stephanie @ Worktop Express

  60. Hi! Thanks for very helpful responses and posts.

    We have brand new Canaletto walnut worktop in our kitchen. I dropped small screwdriver accidentally while fixing some lights. It left a (small) dent on it, and tiny scratch. It was small screwdriver so hard to say how deep the dent/scratch is but it is visible if I look at it. It is such perfect of wood that I find it annoying. Which procedure do you recommend following to fix it (e.g., was or iron/water or something else)?

    Another thing I noticed is both with around dents mentioned above but also as we had food spill that we cleaned with water (not sure if there were detergent residues) and cloth – there are “fat looking” parts on what is beautifully raw surface, looking under light from the side . Not sure it really fat but it is just like if the surface lost Original texture after rubbing, Any idea if this is possible to restore somehow? I expect this to repeat if we don’t put glass on top so any advice would be helpful.

    Thank you very much!

  61. Hello,
    If the Canaletto worktops is a solid wood worktop, try these steps: Soak a cloth in water and wring it out. Place the damp cloth, folded in several layers, over the dent; then press the cloth firmly with a warm iron.
    Be careful not to touch the iron directly to the wood. This moist heat may be enough to swell the wood and raise the dent. If it isn’t, apply a commercial wood-swelling liquid to the area and give it time to work — about a day or so, as directed by the manufacturer.
    For deep dents that can’t be raised with water, heat, or wood sweller, use a fine straight pin or needle to drive a series of holes in the dent. Pound the straight pin in about 1/4 inch, and carefully pull it out with pliers; the holes should be as small as possible. Then treat the dent you would for a shallow dent. The pinholes let the water penetrate the wood’s surface. If you’re careful, the holes won’t show when the wood has been raised.
    After the dent has been raised, let the wood dry for about a week, and then refinish the damaged area as above. Let the finish dry completely. Lightly buff the new finish with No. 0000 steel wool, and then wax and polish the entire surface.
    Many thanks, Adam @ Worktop Express

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