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All about Upstands for Kitchen Worktops

16 Responses to “All about Upstands for Kitchen Worktops”

  1. How do you advise fixing the upstands ? Presumably they will shrink and expand with humidity and temperature changes. Any advice on your recomended way of fixing to the wall would be appreciated, thanks

  2. Hello Nick,

    Thank you for your comment on our blog entry.

    The upstands need to be treated with Rustins Danish Oil prior to installation, which will protect and seal the timber against any changes in humidity, temperature or moisture.

    Once oiled, we then recommend that you fix the upstand directly to the wall – never to the worktop. The best way to fix an upstand to the wall is with a strong adhesive such as No More Nails, with a clear silicone sealant along the join where the upstand meets the worktop. You should never screw an upstand to the wall.

    I hope this helps, but please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any further queries.

    Best Regards,

    Vickie Cannam
    Assistant Sales Manager – Worktop Express

  3. Hi.
    Should the upstands be treated on all surfaces, or should the back be left untreated to allow the No More Nails to adhere properly?
    I thought I’d better ask, as my worktops & upstands were delivered today & very nice they look too.

  4. Hi Mike,

    Thanks for sending in your inquiry, we are glad that you are impressed with the quality of our solid wood upstands.

    We would recommend that our upstands are treated with Rustins Danish Oil (or an appropriate alternative treatment) on all surfaces in order to protect the timber from any moisture ingress.

    Once the finish is fully dried, the adhesive should still stick happily to the rear of the upstand. If you would like to ensure that it has a strong hold, you could score the back of the upstand before treatment to help make it a more tactile surface.

    Kind regards,

    Ben @ Worktop Express.

  5. Hi, is it OK to run a wooden upstand behind a gas hob.
    Thanks

  6. Hi Graham,

    Whilst our solid wood upstands are hard-wearing and will help the worktop blend into the rest of the kitchen, it may not be advisable to have them immediately behind a gas hob as the regular changes in environmental temperature could cause the wood to warp or discolour.

    Instead, we would recommend you consider either tiling the wall behind the hob, or using a glass or stainless steel splashback instead.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  7. When using a wood worktop and tiling the splashback how do you cover the expansion gap? Does the thickness of the tile on the wall effectively create the expansion gap so work to level with tiles and silicone between?

  8. Hi Christina,

    You’ve pretty much hit the nail on the head there.

    If tiling down to a worktop’s surface, the expansion gap should be covered by the thickness of the tiles, which can then be sealed to the worktop using a small amount of silicone.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  9. Hi,
    I will be fitting your beech work tops and up stands in my kitchen soon. These will be butting up to a range cooker. Can you advise me on the gap that I should leave to avoid any damage to work top and upstand. Also, would I need to secure any kind of edging strip as a protector.

    Many thanks.

  10. Hi Chris,

    Thank you for your enquiry.

    We advise that a 30mm gap is left between the worktops and an oven. For AGA and Range cookers, we advise the additional use of end caps. You can find out more about this service here: http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/gbu0-display/worktop_cutting_service.html#end-caps

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  11. We have recently purchased the Andromada worktop and upstands, and we’re wondering about putting the upstand behind the cooker. Its gas and free standing. Can the upstand go behind it or is it best to stop either side of the cooker.

  12. Hi Emily,

    Thank you for purchasing our Andromeda worktops and upstands. Whilst our upstands are very hard-wearing, we don’t recommend placing them directly behind a cooker unless there is a sufficient gap behind the cooker to avoid the heat having any adverse affects on the laminate.

    We have just started selling laminate splashbacks that could be used instead, but to guarantee resilience against heat, we would suggest choosing choosing black glass splashbacks from our sister company, Solid Wood Kitchen Cabinets:

    http://www.solidwoodkitchencabinets.co.uk/Kitchen_Splashbacks/Black_Glass_Kitchen_Splashbacks.html

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  13. Hi Ben, what would you suggest as an acceptable gap between a gas job and the up stands? Debating whether or not to install behind the job or cut out and tile lower in that area. Many thanks

  14. Hi Richard,

    We do not recommend installing upstands directly behind the hob as they may be too close to the heat, causing them to discolour, warp and potentially split. We would recommend tiling or using a splashback instead.

    Wooden upstands can be used either side of the hob, situated approximately 150mm or more away from the hob itself.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

  15. Hi I have purchased caramel bamboo worktops and upstands. The worktops look great, could you please advise whether the upstands should be mitre cut or block cut on corners. I have some boxed in pipes to work around so want to make sure it fits around well. I have also seen some advise to use a silicone sealant on the bottom of the upstands in addition to adhesive on the wall edge, is this something you recommend?
    Thanks,
    Alex

  16. Hi Alex,

    Thanks for getting in touch regarding our upstands. These solid wood accessories are ideal for blending your worktops into the kitchen walls and are a great alternative to tiles.

    We would recommend that you use silicone sealant along the bottom edge of the upstands, and then attach them directly to the wall using a suitable adhesive (such as No More Nails).

    Upstands can be block cut for the corners, or can simply be butt jointed together at 90° at the corners and stuck together using a small amount of adhesive. We would not recommend mitre joints for upstands or solid wood surfaces, as when the timber moves with changes in environmental temperature, it may protrude and look uneven.

    Kind regards,
    Ben @ Worktop Express

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